Here is what one of the manifolds looks like all polished. (polishing is not included)
The manifold fits 1970-1983 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX
The recommended carb is a Holley 390CFM (model 4160 part# 8007) , normally NO rejetting is required on these.
Use a brand new one (about $300) as a rebuilt one will NEVER run right, cause nothing but aggrevation, and cost you many many times the $100 you thought you were going to save in trying to trouble shoot it.

These are the recommended cable and throttle bracket.

Remove the gas pedal assembly from the fire wall (3 phillips screws).

Here is the gas pedal after it's been removed.
Remove the link as shown.

We're going to grind off the rivet that holds the pivot post in place.

You can do this by grinding off the back side of the rivet as shown here or you can easily drill it out.

A hammer and punch makes quick work of popping out what's left of the pivot.

Next we need to grind the end of the rod so that the new clevis from the cable kit will swivel smoothly.

Doing this on the bench grinder took approximately 30 seconds.

Here is what it should look like.

Next we need to bend the gas pedal to the right a little so the tip lines up with the center of the hole in the firewall.

Two whacks with a mallet is all it took.

Here you can see it has been moved to the right about half an inch.

Install the clevis from the cable kit as shown.

Make sure it swivels smoothly.


Cut 3/8 of an inch off the hollow threaded  fitting that goes through the firewall, this keeps it from going through too far
and stopping the gas pedal from fully returning.

A die grinder or hack saw works fine.

Make sure you leave enough material for the thickness of the firewall and the 2 washers.

Cut off a one of the fender washers as shown, these will hold the cable fitting to the firewall.


One washer goes on each side of the hole in the firewall that the original pedal linkage came through.

Mount the outer cable sheath to the fireall along with the 2 fender washers.

Insert the inner cable into the outer cable sheath, and reinstall the gas pedal assembly.

Here you can see it centered in the hole.

The carburetor bolts to the manifold with four 5/16-18 bolts.

Here you can see the adjustable cable bracket held down by  the carburetor bolt.

Slide the black cable retainer onto the end of the outer cable, Install the cable to the throttle bracket as shown.

Mount the new pivot to the hole in the carburetor throttle lever.

Mount the cable tensioner to the pivot.

See how much cable you'll need and  cut off the excess.

Insert the inner cable into the tensioner as shown and tighten with the allen key.

Make sure that the carburetor opens and closes fully with the gas pedal, it's amazing to me how many people refuse to look down the carburetor to verify that they are actually getting full throttle. (there's nothing scary in there)
leave just a little slack in the cable.

Hook up the vacuum line for the power brake booster. (the manifold is tapped for NPT pipe thread)

Look closely just under the choke: we've used a rotary file to grind a groove for clearance for one of the fast idle screws (the screw may need to be shortened as well). If you trial fit the carb first it will save time later. Hook up the hose for the distributor vacuum advance.
Make sure you hook up +12 volt power to the electric choke!!!  If it doesn't have power the choke will be full on all the time and it will be stuck at fast idle. (2500 rpm !!! )

A 9 inch low profile air cleaner with 2 inch element works great and is inexpensive.  Now we're going to add the fitting for PCV to the air cleaner base.  We'll use Carquest hose # 18834 to go to the valve cover and trim it to fit.

This will  vent the top of the valve cover to the air cleaner and burn off those oil fumes. Block off or put a breather on the PCV pipe that comes out below the number 1 header tube (see picture at bottom of page).
Nothing should be going to the carb except  the fuel line and linkage, block off any vacuum ports.

Run a fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor. We used 3/8" brake line and a couple of pieces of rubber fuel line to splice it in.
If you're doing this conversion on a fuel injected car be sure an use a low pressure electric pump instead of the stock high pressure one, it will save you from exploding a perfectly good Holly carb!
On 240Z's the stock mechanical pump is a great match.
A 9 inch low profile air cleaner clears the hood. (On the 1977 and 1978 hood minor clearancing of the hood vent will be necessary) Shut the hood slowly and verify clearance before you slam it!!!

Adjust the idle screws to acheive a clean smooth idle.

Adjust the ignition timing as necessary, I like to keep adding advance untill the engine pings or becomes hard to crank and then just back it off a couple of degrees.

Adjust the electric choke if needed by loosening the 3 phillips screws on the black cover. Rotate it to the right to make it leaner.

The entire installation can be done on a few hours.

Here's what a really clean finished install looks like, car runs as good as it looks!
It's reliable, easy to work on, has great performance, and still gets excellent fuel mileage!

Many thanks to Gary at Spanky's Auto Body (Tel # 480-644-0060) for his help with this installation guide.

2043 East Quartz St.
Mesa, AZ 85213
 (480) 844-9677

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