Jack up the car and support it securely on jack stands before you remove the wheels.

  Here we have the very nice 35 year old stock brakes with the drum removed.

After unbolting the half-shaft use a 27mm socket to remove the stub-axle retaining nut, be sure to pry the flaps back on the nut so it can be unscrewed.
Use a slide hammer or better yet a hydraulic press to remove the stub-axle from the strut housing.
 Press off and discard the old bearings. Don't lose the spacer and washer.

Unbolt and discard the old backing plate.
It's not necessary to remove the entire strut assembly from the car to do the install but it's easier to work on and I like to start fresh with a bare strut housing.

here everything has been disassembled and prepped for rebuilding, the strut tube has been cut off of this strut for installation of our coil-over kit.

  Mount the bracket as shown with the supplied 10x25mm bolts along with the new lock washers and flat washers.
 

Remove all of the original studs from the stub-axle and drill out 3 of the 4 holes with a 1/2 inch diameter drill,  DO NOT DRILL THE 4th HOLE! Check the stub axle  for run-out and straighten in a lathe as needed before reinstalling  ,  I also always use a 20mm X 1.5 die to chase the threads so the axle nut goes on properly (I always use a new locknut).

Checking the stub axles for run-out and refaceing isn't required, but why cut corners and wind up with wobbly rotors and wheels.

Now the stub axles look like new and are dead straight.

Press in the long stud into the hole you didn't drill.
 

  Now you're ready to re-install the stub axle, I always use new wheel bearings, and seals.
NOTE: The new studs are all 12mm x 1.5 thread.

  Bolt the rotor assembly to the stub axle with the 3 socket head bolts and lock-nuts (the 4th position is secured by the long stud and a lug nut)

  Bolt the caliper to the new bracket  using the supplied hardware,  extra washers are included  and may be used between caliper and the bracket to center the caliper with respect to the rotor.  If the extra washers are not required install them under the head of the bolt so the threads don't go through too far and contact the rotor.

Nothin' to it!

Use the supplied braided steel brake line to connect the caliper to the factory brake line.
Screw the end with the small  fitting (1/8 NPT) into the caliper first, then screw the end with the larger metric fitting  onto the end of the factory hard-line as shown.
 

Do a thorough job of bleeding and then do it again.....a little bit of air in the system will spoil your braking performance.
The top 2 bleeders on each caliper need to be bled.

Shown with Tenzo 17X9 wheels, Installation of the 5-lug rear rotor spaces the wheels out 3/4 inch each.