Support the car securely on jack stands and remove the wheels.

Here are the ugly stock brakes

Remove the stock caliper, rotor and hub, get rid of the backing plate. It's not necessary to remove the entire strut assembly from the car to do the install but I like to start fresh with a bare strut housing. (amazing what you can do with a bead blaster and some primer)
 
 

Here's one of the new rotors

Grease the new inner wheel bearings and install them along with the grease seals.
Note the direction of rotation on the rotors. Mount the rotor assembly to the spindle.

Note: the outboard edge of the lower control arm may need to be trimmed or ground down so it will not rub the inside
face of the rotor (see red arrow), you must check for adequate clearance BEFORE DRIVING! and with the car on the ground with the suspension under full load!!

Grease and install the new outer wheel bearings and
reinstall the spindle nut along with the new supplied flatwasher (it has smaller outer diameter to accomodate aluminum dustcap), and the nut retainer and cotter pin.
Install the aluminum dust cap.

Tighten the bolts that mount the caliper to the bracket.

Mount the new caliper and bracket to the stock mounting ears with the supplied metric 12 x 1.25 thread bolts.  Make sure the bleeders point upward and observe the directional mark on the calipers.

You can remove the original little brakeline bracket from the strut tube as it's no longer needed.
 

Screw the short brass  fitting into the caliper fluid inlet (I use TEFLON tape) then attach the metric end of the braided line to the factory hard-line, finally screw the dash-3 end of the braided line to the caliper fitting as shown.

THE BLEEDERS POINT UP! THE BLEEDERS POINT UP! THE BLEEDERS POINT UP! THE BLEEDERS POINT UP!
WHICH WAY DO THE BLEEDERS GO?
THE BLEEDERS POINT UP!

  CKICK HERE TO MOVE ON TO THE REAR INSTALL
 

Do a thorough job of bleeding , a little bit of air in the system will really hurt the pedal feel and braking performance. BOTH BLEEDERS ON EACH CALIPER NEED TO BE BLED!!

If any pulsation is felt under braking the rotor assembly should be carefully trued on a brake lathe.
 
 

ALWAYS work the suspension through it's travel (including turning arc) to make sure there is no interference between the new brakes and the stock suspension components, wheels etc.

Use of the master cylinder from the 1979-1981 280ZX is highly recommended as it has a slightly bigger bore and bigger resevoirs and will bolt up to the stock Z power booster.

Shown with 5 Zigen 17 x 8  wheel